Lions In Winter
After a long, quiet start to the winter surf season, both the Pacific and Atlantic Oceans brought everybody out of the woodwork during the Thanksgiving holiday. And to be sure, the waves didn't disappoint.
Rusty Long and brother Greg were debating taking a trip down to Mexico, but instead, they opted to stay close to home and enjoy the beachbreak within walking distance of their front door.
A Maverick's Moment
So you made the drop at Maverick's and you're feeling good about the line you chose ... then some knucklehead comes falling out of the sky and changes everything.
Bruno Santos is one of the few Brazilians to have an impact at Pipeline season after season. True to form, when the Banzai reef turned on, he was in exactly the right spot.
Heavy surf has been hard to come by on the East Coast this year, and the water dropped eight degrees since the last swell. Al Pollioni doesn't seem to mind as he hides deep in a New Jersey pit.
Behold, the Pipeline arena in all its glory. Third Reef is capping out the back while the swell marches in towards the money part of the reef. Over the Thanksgiving holiday, the surf was about as good as it gets.
For Mick Fanning, a world title hangs in the balance at the upcoming Pipeline Masters. But until then he's been polishing his act at Pipe and Backdoor.
John John Florence
John John Florence asserts his place at the top of the Pipeline food chain. With less than a week until the Pipe Masters, the young Hawaiian has some mean things on his mind.
Not all the action has been taking place in the water in Hawaii. There have been some pretty heavy skate sessions too. Alex "Mom John" Florence studies Jonathan Shipley's rock 'n' roll steez.
Nope, this is not Venice Beach, California. This is Venice, Florida, on the Gulf Coast, when a recent cold front swung through.
Grant "Twiggy" Baker
Grant "Twiggy" Baker lost his sponsorship with Billabong, which leaves some open real estate on the nose of his big board, but he's hardly lost his heart.
North Shore, Oahu
A hearty group of paddlers wait for a break in the sets before making their attempt at getting outside at Pipe.
North Shore transplant Gavin Beschen articulates exactly how to stick the drop at perfect Backdoor.
With the right swell angle and intervals in places that rarely see surf in Southern California turned on, locals like JJ Wessels know exactly where to be to maximize the opportunity.
A well-apportioned surfer handles a particularly robust Maverick's peak.
Cape Hatteras, North Carolina
One icon in the foreground, another in the background on the Outer Banks, North Carolina.
Out of the studio and into the surf, Jack Johnson strikes a chord in front of his house at Pipeline.
Jamie O'Brien may not earn quite the kind of exposure he did when he first exploded onto the scene a few years ago, but nevertheless, his Pipeline bravado remains unmatched.
Drew Ventura hides undercover somewhere south of his namesake.
Leave it to Dane Reynolds to find the smallest wave on the North Shore and turn it into something impressive.
Manasquan, New Jersey
The Army Corps of Engineers works to replenish Inlet Beach in Masaquan, N.J. following Superstorm Sandy. Replenishment projects can lessen beach breaks, but not in this case.
Coming into Hawaii with no competitive pressure, Joel Parkinson has been enjoying the sun and surf, and it's showing in his performances in the water.
Half Moon Bay, California
Everybody wants to be a big-wave hero these days ... everybody. Maverick's is at max capacity on the first swell of the winter season.
How's your air game? It's probably not as good as this San Clemente local's technique.
Long periods of flatness, brown water and freezing winters. Why do East Coasters stay on the East Coast? Phillip Goold can give you one good reason.
The ASP did away with the women's Triple Crown a few years ago, but that hasn't stopped the ladies from putting their best foot forward in Hawaii. Here is Malia Manuel on a full-rail North Shore attack.
Geoff Brack is comfortably ensconced in a south Orange County cylinder.
"That's bro...nice paddle." A surfer goes down and offers up just another reason to LOVE stand-up paddlers on the peak at Maverick's.
It wasn't all big waves and glory. For Joel Tudor and his son, the activity in the Pacific was a chance to spend some quality family time together.